This Week: Off the Clock in Upper Mustang

Follow the Kali Gandaki river up from the Gangetic Plain, passing through the world’s deepest gorge, to reach the Forbidden Kingdom of Mustang.  You will find it sandwiched in an arid valley abutting the Nepalese border with Tibet.  Hidden here, amid high peaks and isolated villages, is one of the last vestiges of Tibetan culture, fortuitously protected from annihilation by an agreement with an ancient King of Nepal.  Centuries of salt traders, monks, and legendary warriors have passed through this valley, tracing the path through one of the easiest navigated passes over the Himalaya.  These travelers have left marks in the haunting landscape – here, in the ancient home of Bon, a pre-Buddhist Tibetan religion, a shepherd recently found 12th century cave paintings that depicted the life of the Buddha.  To this day, solemn meditation caves dot the landscape, serving to heighten the otherworldly atmosphere.    As new types of traders pass through this valley – and as new political and environmental challenges surface – the subjects of Mustang have found themselves confronting the unexpected challenges of the 21st century.   As in all places, the future promises substantial change for this ethereal kingdom.  It’s tough to remain hidden even here, high amongst the mountain peaks.

Photos by Jordan Bower.