Try This : Driving the Tajik/Afghan Border

This wild ride comes from Sam Moon, who is working in Dushanbe.  He recently drove along the Tajik/Afghan border from Khorog to Murghab.

“It’s a fascinating 300km drive from Khorog, the regional capital of GBAO, Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Province, to Murghab, the highest town in Tajikistan, at 3,650m above sea level.  The drive spans most of GBAO, a mostly remote and desolate landscape, where a population of 27,000 inhabits a country the size of Switzerland.  Rugged  mountains covered in crisp snow stretch into the horizon.   For two-thirds of the trip, the road weaves along the Afghan border.  The river separating the two countries is not big; it would  be easy to go for a paddle and end up on the Afghan side.

The further north you drive, the higher the risk of flooding, rebel attacks and a Taliban insurgency – but the landscape gets more stunning. The highest pass is 4,200m and is part of the trade route to China – although these days, few people bother to trade – as the Chinese side puts you on the wrong side of the Gobi desert and further away than Tibet.

Murghab itself is akin to a Mad-Max set.  Trees made of metal, derelict Soviet barracks, watchtowers, and a lone man on a motorbike with a side-car cruising around suspiciously.

The ‘bazaar’ was the only place with any activity; the odd car driving around and people selling weird plastic things, bits of bread and beer.

Planes exist to fly the route from Khorog to Murghab, but that may be a more treacherous experience than driving, since they fly between extremely narrow mountain passes. (A friend  working in a language exchange was in a plane when the wing scraped the mountain side, bits came loose, and the entire plane started shaking uncontrollably.  The pilot managed to turn around and get back at the airport.)

To do this trip (and believe it or not we do recommend it!), you’d have to fly into Khorog, hire a car and driver – you’ll see the care hire place on the road between the airport and town. Be sure to stock up on naan  and chocolate before heading South along the Afghan border towards Iskesheim.”

- Sam Moon

Photos by Sam Moon